After battling the dangerous crosswinds on Ruta 3 for a few days (see previous blog entry), we departed Rio Gallegos on November 2 and crossed back into Chile after a short ride of 60 kms. Another short ride to the Bahia Azul ferry; timed it perfectly and rode straight onto the boat. Short half hour crossing and then were on Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego! We planned this trip for a long time, and here we are.
Our jubilation didn’t last long as we headed down Hwy 257 which was dirt. The weather changed and we got cold, wet and filthy. The bikes rattled around a lot on the potholes and took a beating. Had to deal with another border crossing back into Argentina and limped into Rio Grande late in the day.
Ah, but thanks for new days. For me, November 3 was the most epic day of the adventure. Not a long riding day – only 223kms – but just a beautiful road. The weather was crisp and the heavy winds subsided as we rode in the morning down to Tolhuin, where we stopped at a funky restaurant for coffee and a bite. Passed hundreds of beautiful guanacos along the way, who looked at us curiously with their dark grey faces and huge eyes.
The last 100 kms or so into Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, is amazing. Beautiful mountains, lakes and fjords. Quite similar to British Columbia actually! We took our time and stopped for many photos along the way.
Pulled into Ushuaia (pop. 57,000)and really liked the vibe of the town. Very tourist oriented and felt a little like early days Whistler or Banff. Didn’t take long to find a good restaurant and celebrate with a bottle of champagne. Went out for a few pints of Guiness after that!
Took a day off to relax and hit Tierra del Fuego National Park, then a long riding day back up to Rio Grande, border crossing at San Sebastian back into Chile, dirt road again, ferry and into Punta Arenas, where we are shipping our bikes home from. If BMW Motorrad wants an endorsement for their Adventure motorcycles, give me a call. 18,871 kms from Vancouver, Canada to Punta Arenas, Chile and the bikes performed marvelously.
So the bikes are now gone. We fly to Buenos Aires in the morning and home from there next week. One would think we would be tired of riding by now but we aren’t. Its always a thrill to get back on the bike.
Mantener el lado grasoso hacia abajo! – Bob (Che) Matheson.




























